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Aziz in India
Friday, May 14, 2004
Congress Wins
After weeks of opinion and exit polls predicting a BJP sweep, Congress has won the largest number of seats of any party in the national election. As the big winner, Congress will now choose its alliances, and the new "Congress+" will form a majority in the Lok Sabha (Indian parliament). What an unexected twist. Right on cue, Niraj yesterday exclaimed, 'its the dance of democracy!'. Indeed.
In terms of the number of people affected, this election is the most important in the world, although by population, just about everything in India is significant. I am genuinely pleased that Congress how won--I dont know why, as I dont live here, and its not clear that Congress is any better than the BJP. It is appealing that the BJP has been put in their place for playing some part in the Godhra riots--Muslims across the country cast their votes with Congress+, sometimes disregarding their regional issues. I think I have written enough about Indian politics on this blog, suffice to say that the country is shocked by the win, and Sonia Gandi (the Italian!) will most likely become PM.
Last night I went to N.'s house for dinner, and we had Glenfiddich Scotch--a real luxury, and an expensive one here in India. N. had picked it up in London some time ago--I was pleased and flattered that he opened the bottle for me. I was told not to utter a word about it at the office, because apparently the otherwise docile staff "would become like mad dogs" and insist on N. sharing. Noteworthy was N.'s style of drinking, which was one shot of Scotch diluted in a glassful of water. It was endearing, and very Harundi Bakshi-esque (I dont drink and i dont smoke. do you speak Hindustani?).
I realised at lunch today that I have grown a respectable paunch. My weight has, since grade 11, fluctuated within a narrow band, and I think my paunch may have put me, happily, out of that band. I was delighted at the new found rolls, and spent the afternoon rubbing my belly. I am truly thrilled about the paunch--it is all oil, coconut, ice cream and ghee. Unlike western, flaccid, unhealthy beer guts, my belly is robust and beautifully shaped, like a ripe watermelon. Even people at the office are noticing my new found presence, and A. guessed that I must be enjoying the Indian food. I will redouble my efforts now that I am seeing results.
Sunday, May 09, 2004
On hair-cutting and staring
I have been trying to read as much as I can about India, and in the process have come across some passages that I found especially relevant to my experiences here so far.
FROM “MY EXPERIMENTS WITH TRUTH”, BY MK GANDHI
“…I freed myself from the slavery to the washerman, I threw off dependence on the barber. All the people who go to England learn there at least the art of shaving, but none, to my knowledge, learn to cut their own hair. I had to learn that too…I purchased a pair of clipper and cut my hair before the mirror. I succeeded more or less in cutting the front hair, but I spoiled the back. The friends in the court shook with laughter: ‘What’s wrong with your hair Gandhi? Rats have been at it?’”
***
It has been three weeks since I tried to cut my hair. Like Gandhi, I did a great job on the front, but mangled the back. I had to call the hotel boy to help me fix it. He spent half an hour cutting away and accumulated a sizeable pile of trimmings. When he had finished, I turned around and saw his fearful expression. ‘Is it good?’ I asked. He only pointed at the back of my neck and replied, ‘There is blood’. Then he put down my scissors and backed his way towards the door without turning away from me. He opened the door, and I heard him running down the hall. Only when I felt the back my head, and realized that the boy had carved some hideous, heterogeneous tuft of hair did I realize the motive for his hasty exit. I will use a professional barber next time.
***
FROM “TALKATIVE MAN”, BY RK NARAYAN
The protagonist is explaining to his friend, who claims he is from Timbuctoo, that he should not be intimidated by people staring at him…
“‘I feel uneasy when they stare at me.”
“No harm, better get used to it. I don’t know what it is like in Timbuctoo, but here we don’t mind staring, actually encourage it. It gives people a lot of pleasure. Why not let them please themselves that way? It costs nothing.”
He wouldn’t say anything but fixed his gaze on the far-off horizon, looking at no one in particular.
I said, ‘No one will mind if you stare at them in return. You miss a great deal by not staring. It’s a real pleasure, and an education, really.” He said nothing, but took it as a sort of perverse quipping on my part, probably saying to himself, Cranky journalist.”
***
During my first week here in Ahmedabad, I was riding in an autorickshaw on my way to work. When we stopped at a traffic light, a man popped his head out from an autorickshaw next to us. Holding on to his seat, he leaned far out of his auto and craned his neck around to get a good look at me. He was painted in white, his hair was long and matted, and he was dressed in a long cotton gown. I later learned that he is a Sadhu, a Hindu holy man.
He stared at me, looking me up and down in broad strokes. And I stared back at him, transfixed by his huge eyes and intrigued by his painted arms. Just then, his friend, who I hadn’t seen sitting behind him, curiously poked his head above his friend’s shoulder and surveyed me himself. He must have been thinking, ‘what’s all this commotion about?’. We sat there, staring with equal intensity at each other for a good thirty seconds. Then, as the light was about to turn green, my driver started his engine. I nodded at the Sadhus, and they nodded back at me. Both parties were pleased with their exchange of visual information, and we sped off.
***
I have been enjoying some excellent weather here recently. A cyclone has been brewing 700 kms south of the southern tip of Gujarat, and as a result, we are experiencing cooler weather (36C) and even light rain! The sky has also been a deep blue colour, instead of the hazy blanket of white that it normally is.
I have taken some pretty interesting monochrome photos that I look forward to scanning and emailing out as soon as I can find a scanner.